How a suit should fit a Man

At La Rukico Tailors we have more than 40 years of experience making custom, tailor-made bespoke suits in New York City. We know exactly how to design a custom suit that flatters any body type. Read on to learn more about how a bespoke suit should fit.

The shoulder is one of the most recognizable features on men's suits. Our custom suits are designed to lie flat. The seam should meet the suit sleeve where your arm meets your shoulder. If the seam connecting the sleeve to the jacket is scrunched up on your shoulder bone or dangling on your bicep, the jacket is ill fitted. Shoulders are very difficult to alter after construction, so it's important to get a suit that fits well from the beginning.

Trouser Break

The break is the wrinkle caused when the top of your shoe stops the trouser cuff from reaching its full length. The trouser break should be very subtle, with no more than one horizontal dimple or crease. There should be contact with the shoe, but the cuff should only rest on the shoe, with the trouser falling slightly longer in the back than the front.

Trouser Seat

The back of the trousers should drape smoothly over the rear end and fit loosely against your underwear. A good trouser seat fit is important, because it will be noticeable when you take off your sport coat. If you see horizontal wrinkles under the buttocks or loose sags on the back of the thigh.

Jacket Length

This often-forgotten aspect of men's suits is more important than you might think. The jacket length should drape over the top of the curve made by the buttocks. With your arms relaxed in a natural stance, the hem of the jacket should reach the middle of your hand. Sleeve length should leave about a half inch of the shirt cuff visible past the jacket cuff.

Jacket Collar

A well-fitted collar should rest against the shirt collar, which should rest against the back of your neck. All three of these areas should touch lightly, without any major gaps in between.