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1. Wool & Cashmere fabrics are always milled in Europe. If a tailor merchandizes wool or cashmere, you can do a quick check to see if name of the mill is on edge of the fabric (also called fabric selvedge). The fabric will also sport a label of authenticity sewn into the garment.
2. Cashmere is always sold in percentages. For example the Loro Piana fabric and made to measure suit we have on sale on tailor.com (http://tailor.com/product-category/la-rukico-deal-of-the-month/), is labelled as 82% Super 150 s Wool, 15% Silk and 3% Lycra. Your tailor should be able to tell you the exact percentage of cashmere or wool in your fabric selection coming from world famous clothing mills in Europe (The house of Dormeuil, Loro Piana, Sherry & Holland etc). If your tailor is unable to give you the exact percentages, most likely the cloth fabric is not European and is a Chinese fake.
3. What does it mean when we hear fabrics being classified as Italian / English in origin? The main reason driving this narrative is because fabrics from Italy and England are always branded, are of the highest quality and are most sought after. There is a reason why fabrics from The house of Dormeuil in England or Loro Piana in Italy are copied by fake mills in China, Japan & Thailand. However, the copy does not take into account the subtle intricacies of the richness in fabric, its construction and its weave patterns which make the suits from these fabrics last generations and is a result of huge money sink in R&D. European fabrics always come with a branded label of authenticity, sewn into your suit, shirt or jacket. The suiting selvedge will carry the name of the manufacturing mill where the cloth came from. So next time, someone claims their fabric to be Italian or English in origin, you can look and ask the right questions.
4. A deluge in fake and falsely branded fabrics makes it tough for ethical tailors to compete with fake fabrics from china and other Asian countries. Corrupt tailors will not list fabric specifications and their origin in detail. Fake fabrics usually will be sold by listing them as “wool/cashmere” without actually them with their detailed specifications, name of the mill and the brand with corresponding suits selling for $299 - $599. Fabrics from named brands like The House of Dormeuil or Loro Piana go north of $600. In Select cases, based on history of Tailor with European clothing mills, we may get select discounts based on excess inventory or by purchasing such excess cloth in whole sale. We at La Rukico strive to bring these savings to our customers, and though the selections may be minimal, the designs are much in demand and the cloth is genuine and authentic to the brand. Our deal of the month reflects this approach.
5. The construction of a suit from full canvas is a complex and time consuming process, but is the hallmark of a bespoke or made to measure suit and a testament to superior craftsmanship. There are no deals with this construction except in select cases where a Tailor may get a deal in select cloth fabrics from world class mills and may promote this with a made to measure suit as a loss leader to attract new clients. The choice of fabrics in such cases is minimal, but in 99% of bespoke or made to measure construction from a single canvas is without any deals. If a suit is not made from full canvas, you can expect a low grade craftsmanship in the suit and is not worthy of the money spent.